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Wednesday, 07 January, 2004

 
 

 

HANDLOOM  SECTOR

Introduction

From time immemorial handloom industry has been playing a vital role in the state economy. The traditional skill of handloom weaving was not only a status symbol for the women-folk but it was also an indispensable aspect of the socio-economic life. Handloom weaving is by far the largest and the most important cottage industry in the state. As per the National Handloom census reports 1996-97, there are 3.39 lakh weavers with 2.77 lakh different looms producing 86.40 lakh linear metre of handloom cloth per month.

Out of the total weavers 70% were working full time in the valley areas as against 40% in the hill areas. The incidence of low utilisation of employment both in the hill and valley areas is due to lack of proper and efficient marketing mechanism. If proper marketing arrangement is made, the capacity utilisation could be increased. In fact, if there is full utilisation of the available manpower and equipment in the State, the production would be 115.20 lakh metre of handloom cloth per month.

The State Handloom & Handicrafts Development Corporation Ltd. with its emporia at New Delhi, Kolkata and Imphal and the Manipur State Handloom Weavers Co-Operative Society, an apex body of the weavers co-operative societies in Manipur were primarily responsible for marketing of handloom and handicrafts products of the State but all these organisations have not been able to meet the requirements and there has been a big gap in  the marketing sector.

In view of the above shortcomings, it is high time to establish a new agency exclusively for export and marketing of handloom products in the state of Manipur with active/effective participation of Private Investors and other concerned organisations. The agency would procure finished products of handloom from the PWCS which have been benefited extensively under the Central Sponsored schemes like Integrated Handloom Village Development Project, Margin Money for Destitute Weavers, Project Package Scheme and Deen Dayal Hathkargha protsahan Yojana and  Individual weavers. Further, the agency would provide marketable standard/specified handloom fabrics with proper quality control for export outside the state/country. The agency would also provide training inputs to the selected PWCS/individual weavers in order to enable to produce quality fabrics in the specified design.

Handloom Population and  production:

As per the National Handloom & Powerloom Census conducted during the year 1996-97, population of looms & weavers in Manipur are given hereunder:-

Sl. No.

District Name

No. of weaver

No. of loom

Consumption of yarn per month  Production of cloth per month

( in  Kg.)

(in  Metre)

1. Imphal 91820 68273

5, 01,936.10

44, 26,402.00
2. Thoubal 37835 26586

1, 60,334.50

19, 33,600.00
3. Bishnupur

53069

31420 1, 86,294.70 13, 25,974.00
4. Churachandpur 39294 43847 56,502.10 3, 61,953.60
5. Ukhrul  24233 22629 23,567.00 1, 98,933.50
6. Tamenglong 35577 36918 1, 02,953.80 2, 29,434.30
7. Senapati 44250 35443 12,763.80 92,901.12
8. Chandel  13554 11639 26,204.70 71,615.00
  Total 339632 276755 10, 70,557.00 86, 40,814.00

In respect of Imphal, Thoubal and Bishnupur districts, the main handloom products are  Cotton, Polyester cloths like Sarees, Made up bed sheet, curtain, towel(Bath towels, hand towels, face towels, etc), Table cloths,  Fashion garments with intricated designs, cushion covers, pillow covers, Upholstery, Draperies, Scarves, Terry towels, dessing gown, lashingphee(cotton tweed cloth) etc. and the remaining five hill districts from Sl.No. 4 to 8 are mainly produced Acrylic/wool cloth like Tribal Shawl, ladies lungies, Wall hanging & coverings, Upholstery, hanging bags, curtain, home furnishing etc.

Projected target of production on full utilisation of existing manpower & equipment:

Sl. No.

District Name

No. of weaver

No. of loom

Consumption of yarn per month  Production of cloth per month

( in  Kg.)

(in  Metre)

1. Imphal 91820 68273 8, 36,560.20 73, 77,336.70
2. Thoubal 37835 26586 2, 67,224.20 32, 22,666.70
3. Bishnupur

53069

31420 3, 10,491.20 22, 09,956.70
4. Churachandpur 39294 43847 1, 88,340.30 12, 06,512.00
5. Ukhrul  24233 22629 78,556.67 6, 63,111.67
6. Tamenglong 35577 36918 3, 43,179.30 7, 64,781.00
7. Senapati 44250 35443 42,546.00 3, 09,670.40
8. Chandel  13554 11639 87,349.00 2, 38,716.67
  Total 339632 276755 21, 54,247.00 159, 92,752.00

            It is seen from the above two tables, that  the first table shows the normal production of consumption of yarn in absence of proper designing techniques and marketing outlet and the second table shows the projected target as and when the new designing techniques is introduced and  marketing is assured with the same population of manpower and looms.

Reason of low production:

Around 40% of weavers are not working fully during the whole year of 12 months in respect of valley district, where conventional Fly Shuttle Looms and weavers are concentrated and 70% of the weavers in case of hill district due to:-

(a)        Fear psychosis, presuming that bulk production would not find market.
(b)        Lack of modern and improved techniques of designing.
(c )       Lack of awareness of the modern fast changing market scenario.

Existing Market Mechanism:

(a)      Marketing under the Co-operative Organisations.
(b)      Marketing under Govt. undertaking/owned Corporation/deptt.
(c )     Marketing by independent weavers.
(d)     Marketing under Master Weavers.

Ongoing and past discontinued Developmental schemes or Programmes launched by Government of India:

There are many Developmental as well as Welfare schemes under central Sponsored Scheme from the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India. Some of the important developmental schemes are:

(a)  Erstwhile Project Package Scheme (PPS).
(b)  Integrated Handloom Village Development Project (IHVDP).
(c )  Deen Dayal Hathkargha Protsahan Yojana(DDHPY).

            These schemes are emphasised on production of handloom items with assistance in form of Central grant and loan and nominal contribution of state matching shares as grant and loan. The department is also contemplating to avail the opportunity of getting loans by the weavers/PWCS  from the Financial Institutions/Banks for basic Inputs like Working Capital and purchase of looms. The production programme can, therefore, carried out in accordance with the guidelines issued by the Government of India from time to time.

A profile of the above project is enclosed in the Annexure.

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