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Introduction
From time immemorial handloom
industry has been playing a vital role in the state economy. The traditional
skill of handloom weaving was not only a status symbol for the women-folk but
it was also an indispensable aspect of the socio-economic life. Handloom
weaving is by far the largest and the most important cottage industry in the
state. As per the National Handloom census reports 1996-97, there are 3.39 lakh
weavers with 2.77 lakh different looms producing 86.40 lakh linear metre of
handloom cloth per month.
Out of the total weavers 70% were
working full time in the valley areas as against 40% in the hill areas. The
incidence of low utilisation of employment both in the hill and valley areas is
due to lack of proper and efficient marketing mechanism. If proper marketing
arrangement is made, the capacity utilisation could be increased. In fact, if
there is full utilisation of the available manpower and equipment in the State,
the production would be 115.20 lakh metre of handloom cloth per month.
The State Handloom &
Handicrafts Development Corporation Ltd. with its emporia at New Delhi, Kolkata
and Imphal and the Manipur State Handloom Weavers Co-Operative Society, an apex
body of the weavers co-operative societies in Manipur were primarily
responsible for marketing of handloom and handicrafts products of the State but
all these organisations have not been able to meet the requirements and there
has been a big gap in the marketing
sector.
In view of the above
shortcomings, it is high time to establish a new agency exclusively for export
and marketing of handloom products in the state of Manipur with
active/effective participation of Private Investors and other concerned
organisations. The agency would procure finished products of handloom from the
PWCS which have been benefited extensively under the Central Sponsored schemes
like Integrated Handloom Village Development Project, Margin Money for
Destitute Weavers, Project Package Scheme and Deen Dayal Hathkargha protsahan
Yojana and Individual weavers. Further,
the agency would provide marketable standard/specified handloom fabrics with
proper quality control for export outside the state/country. The agency would
also provide training inputs to the selected PWCS/individual weavers in order
to enable to produce quality fabrics in the specified design.
Handloom
Population and production:
As per the
National Handloom & Powerloom Census conducted during the year 1996-97,
population of looms & weavers in Manipur are given hereunder:-
|
Sl. No.
|
District
Name |
No. of weaver |
No. of loom
|
Consumption of yarn
per month |
Production of cloth
per month |
|
( in Kg.) |
(in Metre) |
| 1. |
Imphal |
91820 |
68273 |
5, 01,936.10
|
44, 26,402.00 |
| 2. |
Thoubal |
37835 |
26586 |
1, 60,334.50
|
19,
33,600.00 |
| 3. |
Bishnupur |
53069
|
31420 |
1,
86,294.70 |
13, 25,974.00 |
| 4. |
Churachandpur |
39294 |
43847 |
56,502.10 |
3, 61,953.60 |
| 5. |
Ukhrul |
24233 |
22629 |
23,567.00 |
1, 98,933.50 |
| 6. |
Tamenglong |
35577 |
36918 |
1, 02,953.80 |
2, 29,434.30 |
| 7. |
Senapati |
44250 |
35443 |
12,763.80 |
92,901.12 |
| 8. |
Chandel |
13554 |
11639 |
26,204.70 |
71,615.00 |
| |
Total |
339632 |
276755 |
10, 70,557.00 |
86, 40,814.00 |
In respect of
Imphal, Thoubal and Bishnupur districts, the main handloom products are Cotton, Polyester cloths like Sarees, Made
up bed sheet, curtain, towel(Bath towels, hand towels, face towels, etc), Table
cloths, Fashion garments with
intricated designs, cushion covers, pillow covers, Upholstery, Draperies,
Scarves, Terry towels, dessing gown, lashingphee(cotton tweed cloth) etc. and
the remaining five hill districts from Sl.No. 4 to 8 are mainly produced
Acrylic/wool cloth like Tribal Shawl, ladies lungies, Wall hanging &
coverings, Upholstery, hanging bags, curtain, home furnishing etc.
Projected target of production on full utilisation of existing manpower & equipment:
|
Sl. No.
|
District
Name |
No. of weaver |
No. of loom
|
Consumption of yarn
per month |
Production of cloth
per month |
|
( in Kg.) |
(in Metre) |
| 1. |
Imphal |
91820 |
68273 |
8, 36,560.20
|
73, 77,336.70 |
| 2. |
Thoubal |
37835 |
26586 |
2, 67,224.20
|
32, 22,666.70 |
| 3. |
Bishnupur |
53069
|
31420 |
3, 10,491.20 |
22, 09,956.70 |
| 4. |
Churachandpur |
39294 |
43847 |
1, 88,340.30 |
12, 06,512.00 |
| 5. |
Ukhrul |
24233 |
22629 |
78,556.67 |
6, 63,111.67 |
| 6. |
Tamenglong |
35577 |
36918 |
3, 43,179.30 |
7, 64,781.00 |
| 7. |
Senapati |
44250 |
35443 |
42,546.00 |
3, 09,670.40 |
| 8. |
Chandel |
13554 |
11639 |
87,349.00 |
2, 38,716.67 |
| |
Total |
339632 |
276755 |
21, 54,247.00 |
159, 92,752.00 |
It is seen from the above two
tables, that the first table shows the
normal production of consumption of yarn in absence of proper designing
techniques and marketing outlet and the second table shows the projected target
as and when the new designing techniques is introduced and marketing is assured with the same population
of manpower and looms.
Reason of low production:
Around 40% of
weavers are not working fully during the whole year of 12 months in respect of
valley district, where conventional Fly Shuttle Looms and weavers are
concentrated and 70% of the weavers in case of hill district due to:-
(a) Fear psychosis, presuming that bulk production would not find
market.
(b) Lack of modern and improved techniques of designing.
(c ) Lack of awareness of the modern fast changing market scenario.
Existing Market
Mechanism:
(a) Marketing under the Co-operative
Organisations.
(b) Marketing under Govt. undertaking/owned
Corporation/deptt.
(c ) Marketing by independent weavers.
(d) Marketing under Master Weavers.
Ongoing
and past discontinued Developmental schemes or Programmes launched by
Government of India:
There are many
Developmental as well as Welfare schemes under central Sponsored Scheme from
the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India. Some of the important developmental
schemes are:
(a) Erstwhile Project Package Scheme (PPS).
(b) Integrated Handloom Village Development Project (IHVDP).
(c ) Deen Dayal Hathkargha Protsahan Yojana(DDHPY).
These
schemes are emphasised on production of handloom items with assistance in form
of Central grant and loan and nominal contribution of state matching shares as
grant and loan. The department is also contemplating to avail the opportunity
of getting loans by the weavers/PWCS
from the Financial Institutions/Banks for basic Inputs like Working Capital
and purchase of looms. The production programme can, therefore, carried out in
accordance with the guidelines issued by the Government of India from time to
time.
A profile of the above project is
enclosed in the Annexure.
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